Light Weights

with visual layers as texture, summer suits are a knockout

We have nothing against department stores. There is probably no better place to find a full designer collection (not to mention sportswear). It's all about brand identity--you find the designer you like, then go to the corner of the store that features yards and yards of his or her line. Lately, though, taking pride in buying just one label seems like the easy way out. Lost in the Armani mania and Karan craze are traditions of the haberdashery. Our approach this year is to serve as your personal shopper--to remind you of the Playboy style. Men with taste should think about their entire ensemble. They should feel comfortable mixing labels and wearing suits of different cuts--and personalizing every outfit. The single-breasted suit, for example, is still going strong. Manufacturers have softened the look by taking the high-button stance of a three-button jacket and lowering the top button. You can take it a notch further by rolling down the lapel and using the middle button only. With a nod toward British stripes and checks, it's smart to combine lightweight summer suits with plaid shirts. Add a pocket square and a patterned tie and you've struck a balance between sophistication and daring. Easy, right? It's summer, but that doesn't mean you have to sweat.

Where & How to Buy on page 153.